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Siberia and Mongolia 2010
The team has deployed to Mongolia and Siberia July 2010.
Sudamericana 2008
A team of 21 from previous trips embarked on an expedition into Patagonia Southern Chile in November 2008.
Bhutan Nepal India 2006 In December 2006 an expedition party shipped three jet boats to Calcutta for road carriage up to Bhutan...
ImageIn December 2006 an expedition party shipped three jet boats to Calcutta for road carriage up to Bhutan...

From Bhutan the twelve expedition members successfully navigated five major river systems off the Himalayas. On the two major river systems through Bhutan, including armis Royal National Park, and on to Nepal where they successfully ascended Son Kosi, Kali Gandak and Karnali river systems, totalling 23 rivers through much adversity and poverty.

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Thursday 21st December
Phuntsaholing India-Bhutan Border.
Matthew

Clearing customs and unpacking the container was completed without incident. Tow bars were fitted to 3 land cruisers and some light engineering in town (which cost $3.00!) meant we had the boats ready by lunchtime. Phuntsaholing (pin-so-ling) is in Bhutan and borders Sikkim in India, our first fueling stop for the boats attracted a great deal of attention as we pumped the 82 octane fuel and set off up the river which runs just below the town.

The river entered steep country very quickly and due to plenty of rocks we had a short run upstream before turning about and heading back. Passing our launch site we entered India by water and boated approximately 30 km’s downstream. Scattered down the river banks were a few people washing, fishing and bathing, all amused to see our boats. After a small push (all 3 boats!!) we were underway again and turned about at India highway 31 as 2 Bangladesh air force jets thundered overhead, an amazing contrast. Word had been sent out and on our return trip upstream many hundreds had assembled, frantically waving and greeting us as we passed. One rest stop brought the local farmer his, wife and daughter to the river bank, they strolled through our group coyly brandishing their sickles, soon learning we were friendly and stayed to watch us boat up the river. In any case we had brave Duncan who had his own steel albeit half the size.

So with the first day’s boating behind and the boats sorted we are preparing for a relatively short 3 hour drive to the Assam Bengal border to launch on the Sun Kosh River.

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Friday 22nd December
Matthew

Early start today leaving Bhutan for the main northern highway in India, border crossing was in a very poor town and we were soon surrounded by locals, children and beggars.
The drive to the Son kosh river in India was relatively fast compared to the step mountainous roads of previous days, the Indian roads whilst single lane were fast (50 km/h) as we were on the flat Assam plain. We arrived at our campsite on the banks of the river and quickly launched the boats whilst our camp was set-up. The trip upstream started with a clear braided river, teaming with people floating down on man made log jam rafts with their bicycles atop, we surmised they sell the timber downstream and ride the bikes home. Part way up the river we helped recover a timber long boat which sunk before us, it was overload with around 5 ton of river stones, which they transport to be used as road base or cement.

Before long the river grew steeper, our local contact Sonam pointing to traditional flags on the bank signalling we had just entered Bhutan again. Almost immediately we were presented with huge mountains and our first white water. Sonam an experienced river guide was able to identify various grades of rapids, initially grade 2 and 3. After entering steep gorge country we soon found ourselves climbing grade 4, with no mishaps we turned about for the bumpy ride home having spent a good part of the day on the river.

We returned to find our camp well set up on the river bank and great Bhutan food for dinner. Tonight will be spent by the camp fire under the watchful eye of dozens of locals who are gathered in groups fascinated with our every move.

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Saturday 23rd December

4 hours drive along the India highway 31 to cover a 100km’s was punctuated with a few stops. In one small area we found a roadside stall and could buy flat coke-a-cola and a few biscuits, most of which was clearly very old stock, we declined a meal from the kitchen which consisted of an earth hearth and compacted dirt floors.

Launching into the Mana river attracted a crowd and the kids were taken for a ride in the boats. We set off up river for the Mana National park and accommodation at the Bansbari Lodge. Along the way we had to negotiate many long boats carry rocks which had only 50mm freeboard, so a good deal of time was spent avoiding or idling past them.

After about 1.6 hours boating we again entered Bhutan by river, signalled by the steepening of the country side and the bright flags on the shore. Steep it was and we were soon climbing class 3 water on this very fast river. After about 25 minutes of great boating a few people were very wet, we then came across a class 4 rapid. This was studied carefully as there seemed to be only one real option up, so all the gear and passengers were ejected and Jeff climbed his way to the top.

Our down stream run provided plenty of action as we all got quite wet, one boat being swamped a little after a spectacular run, having to bilge out before continuing. The lower half of the downstream run back to the lodge was great, boating in a fantastic light and scenery of wild buffalo and some elephants. At one passing under a huge pedestrian suspension bridge only to notice it had a dozen donkey’s crossing who where not impressed by the boats! Elephants were to come in handy as we used one to pull the boats on the steep bank, but not before some interesting parking up was done to get them clear of the water.

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24th/25th December

A Day of Chaos

Up at 6am from our Manas National Park Lodge, no elephant this morning so we push the boats back in with cruisers. By 7.30am we were on our way downstream to the trailers. As the fog was heavy we boated the braided shingle river mostly by GPS. Word had got around and there were groups of locals along the banks for almost the entire 30 minute trip. Occasionally we stop to say hello and meet the people, handing out balloons and pens.

The drive to the India Nepal border takes more than 12 hours, the first 9 hours on poor roads and the last on much better faster road (e 60km/h). The road was chaos, all vehicles had close calls with trikes, bikes or pedestrians… one cruiser and trailer all locked up as was the minibus! But come night time it only got worse as the hand trolleys loaded with bamboo the walkers and bikes all had no lights.

Arrived at a very poor border town only to be stopped by Indian Customs and denied permission to leave India, partly because we needed to use the Bhutan cruisers for the last 200m to the hotel. A call to the Bhutan Embassy at 10pm and around 1.5 hours later we were through only to find the promised 80 series Landcruiser were in fact 70 series and all our tow bars will not fit.

At this point in our trip we farewell our Bhuntese crew and change over to our Nepalese crew. The “hotel” found at short notice is a “absolute hole” and that’s in Guide Daves own words!! We will spend Christmas day tracking down a engineering shop (ie a tin shed lean to) and make our own towbars. After that and if the road strike ends (all roads are blocked by political factions) we will drive to our river camp on the Sun Kosi.

Late update: All well here, fitting towbars today (Christmas) in a rundown roadside workshop, hopefully getting out today and heading to sun kosi campsite as per schedule.. at present roads are blocked, have been told we will be stoned and
burnt if proceed. At the moment we are fitting cars out with appropriate flags to run the gauntlet or looking for police escort, it appears to be a one day strike on roads only by political groups, not a worry.

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25th Dec to 30th Dec
Chatra Nepal to Katmandu

25 Dec
After huge difficulties getting across the border into Nepal from India we finally made it to the Hotel. The border crossing at midnight involved a long winded process as the India Customs would not let us leave India, calls to the Bhutan Embassy and a bribe finally had us across the border, although we could not take the tow vehicles! We had to attach the trailers to the Nepal Land cruiser using tie down straps and the following morning home made tow bars were manufactured. Due to civil unrest in Nepal the road was closed Christmas day and threats of stoning and burning of vehicles was about. We left town regardless with our vehicles looking ‘official’ and due to the clear roads was able to speed through or talk our way through any road blocks. Our average speed for the trip is around only 25km hour so the days are long when towing.

25 Dec
The Sun Kosi (Son Koshi): An Epic Journey
We arrived at Chatra on the banks of the Sun Kosi (Son Koshi) as Ed Hillary and Jon Hamilton did almost 40 years earlier and launched our boats down an embankment and boated using torches to the Hamilton base camp (20 mins) at dusk on the Son Koshi/Arun confluence, an exciting trip in itself, there our camp was set up having been ported in the day before.

26 Dec
After being treated to a great breakfast and the most spectacular view we set off up the Arun river through some very challenging country side, finally coming to a halt at a fast steep rapid which almost claimed one of our boats. At this time Duncan called Jon Hamilton on the sat phone a great moment, and until we can check our data it appears we may have been at the same location as where they lost “Sherpa” in the 1960’s or a few km’s further up stream. After also boating the Tamur River as Hamilton had, we returned to our base camp and some of us headed off down stream to a 2500 year old Hindu temple village perched high on the cliff, dedicated to Vishnu and Indian Hindus from the world over come to visit. It was here that my self (Matthew F) and David L carried out a ceremony to pay respect and receive good luck, the good luck which was to pay off handsomely in the following days, although some believed it was in fact a marriage ceremony! L

27 Dec
Next day we set off up the Sun Kosi (Son Koshi)for a two day trip and some 300km to cover, very daunting, breaking new ground and the white water covered meant we could not turn back, only one way out, up. With some boats carrying up to 300 litres of fuel, jet unit spares, grills, alloy etc we set off. We had a local river guide with us who rafts this river but only at higher flows providing valuable information at times. This day we had 6 significant class 3 or greater rapids to cover on the Sun Kosi (Son Koshi) and countless if not 50 class 2 to 3. Many of the rapids meant portaging all our boat gear around. Before long we arrived at the confluence with the Dudh kosi which flows directly off Mt Everest and finally into the Ganges (mother ganga) venturing up a short distance. This country side is immensely steep and we were constantly going from one valley to the next.
Late in the day after some very hard boating, only a kilometer from Hakapur, we came across a “ Big class 4-plus” rafting rapid, in fact one that the rafts boat around in a side channel because of it’s size. Unfortunately the side channel was not boatable and the rapid as measured on the GPS some 29 feet high and 80 feet long with huge holes and steps. This was a deal breaker and threatened the entire trip, such was the difficulty of the river of the previous 100km or so we could not boat back and had another 160 km to cover before the river exit at Dolalghat. A very big decision was made by those high on the totem with large kahunas and Jeff, Duncan and Nev took all boats up successfully, two of them having huge moments but finally making the climb to the top. Absolutely unbelievable that they all made it, Jeff later quoted as saying it was a 95% chance one boat would not make it and our rafting guide with 365 days on this river just shaking his head in amazement.

Leaving Hakapur we thought we had only 2 or 3 major rapids but it turned out to be another day of portaging and very hard work with another close call. This is all new territory and with the flows we had meant around 160km not knowing if we could get to the top. The last 40 km was very steep climbing a 1m every 30 or 40 seconds and a lot of punishment on the boats as we at times slowing bumped our way up large rock gardens. Every village we went past would empty out and race done to the river, sometimes entire schools on the river banks would rush to see us and wave like mad, the older people looking bewildered. Duncan quoted as saying his new 141 must be made of a “softer alloy” than the other two boats J, he was punished severely for that comment J We finally made it and trailered out just one boat (vehicle trouble, the drivers had driven for 20 hours to meet us) which meant we had 13 in the cruiser and boat for the 1 hour drive to the lodge. The remaining boats left at the river until we returned the next day, a huge night was had at the lodge to celebrate this very significant achievement.

NZ long holding the reputation, but not any more.. Nepal IS the Holy Grail of Jet boating, and on a scale that would defy description. The size of the country side, rapids and difficulty far exceeding our trip organizers estimations. Another great quote heard on the river bank “would you have put your boat in the container if you new the water would be like this”

We are now in Katmandu for a single day of rest before we head west for a tough 5 days of boating, all rivers which we will have to boat up and back. Then it is a 30 or more hour drive back across Nepal India (where we change vehicles and tow bars) and into Buhtan to pack the container, another 6 hours to Paro for the flight out. Unlikely we will get access to internet but will do our best. All are well and having a great time.

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30th to 3rd January 07
Kathmandu – A great time was had in Kathmandu, our white water guide David “roll the dice” “only one more grade 4 rapid”  took us to his local restaurant where we ate well on steaks and pizza, a big change from the traditional food we had eaten. A lazy day in town was spent shopping for gifts back home and Jeff did some in room welding repairs on his nozzle.
New Years Eve was spent on the road and some running repairs to two of the boats, one requiring a new starter motor and the other had an engine hatch repair.
We launched in to the Trisuli River, a large wide shingle river which passed through a local town, before long we encountered large white water and headed down stream to take a quick look up the Seti river and finally not far from the trailers headed up the Kali Gandaki. We were to have boated down this river from Pokhara however this part of the trip was removed as the driving times were getting way to long. The Kali Gandaki one of the most spectacular rivers I have ever seen. Surrounded by huge mountains and itself passing through shear gorges rich in vegetation and moss. As we went through some of the steeper gorges quite a lot of large rock falls meant we had a fun time winding our way up the pristine clear waters. On the exit of the river we witnessed two river side cremations, all the men gather with the shrouded body covered in red pigment, it is cremated wholly, when finished the shroud is thrown to the river. New Years Eve was celebrated 3 times! Twice on the river bed when retrieving the boats for the aussies and kiwis and again after a long drive at our accommodation that evening, although I believe only one or two where awake for that.

A long days drive further west and we arrived at the Royal Bardia National Park, we are staying here for 3 nights in traditional houses made from mud and sticks, although we have a bathroom! All 12 of us went on an elephant safari for 4 or 5 hours, big elephants indeed. We saw 2 huge pythons plenty of monkeys, a large stag, plenty of dear but no tigers. For dinner we had a whole pig on spit prepared by our local farmer hugh.

Thursday until today Friday we have been travelling with little rest across Nepal, into India (where we changed vehicles), tomorrow we will boat one more river and pack the container before entering Bhutan for some sight seeing and the flight home.

This has been an epic adventure!
Matthew

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last minute update: left nepal thursday arrived at India/Bhutan border today Saturday after a long long drive. Load container tonight then drive to Paro Bhutan through the mountains for some sightseeing before flying out tues morning.

An epic trip almost over

matthew